In a hurry? These are the things you need to know:
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Worm-drive (jubilee) clips are the most common general-purpose clamp, adjustable, reusable, and suitable for low to medium pressure applications across plumbing, automotive, and industrial uses.
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T-bolt clamps provide greater clamping force and more uniform pressure distribution than worm-drive clips, making them the preferred choice for high-pressure, large-diameter, or vibration-heavy applications.
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Spring clips are used where frequent assembly and disassembly is needed, particularly in automotive cooling systems. They maintain constant pressure as the hose expands and contracts with temperature.
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Always match clamp material to the environment. Stainless steel is required for marine, outdoor, and food-grade applications; mild steel suits general indoor use but will corrode if exposed to moisture over time.
Hose clamps are a popular attachment used in a variety of different industries in order to secure the transportation of products, liquids, gases, and chemicals.
But how do you know which is the correct hose clamp to use in a certain situation? We’ve got you covered. Keep reading to learn more from the team at The Hosemaster…
Is a hose clamp the same as a Jubilee clip?
The "jubilee clip" name comes from a product registered by L. Robinson & Co. in 1921. It got so widely used that the name stuck generically, the same way everyone calls a vacuum cleaner a Hoover regardless of who made it. Jubilee Clips Ltd still makes them in the UK today.
The clamping pressure from a worm-drive clip isn't even all the way round. It's highest near the housing and drops off on the opposite side. For most applications this is fine. For anything safety-critical or high-pressure, it starts to matter, which is why other designs exist.
What are the different types of hose clamp?
Screw/band clamps
Adjustable, reusable, and available in every size from 8mm diameter up to 165mm and beyond, it works well on rubber hose, reinforced PVC, and most garden and plumbing applications.
Screw clamps are good for domestic appliances, light automotive work, agricultural connections, HVAC, and really anything where you're dealing with rubber or PVC hose at moderate pressures.
The advantages of screw clamps include their ease of installation and adjustment, as well as their strong and secure hold. However, it's important to note that over-tightening these clamps can damage the hose, and they may not be suitable for very high-pressure applications.

Shop Stainless Steel Worm Drive Clamps Selection Box
Spring hose clamps
The factory-fit standard on most OEM automotive coolant lines. Spring clamps, also known as constant-tension clamps, provide a consistent clamping force, even when temperature changes cause the hose material to expand or contract. Constructed from a single piece of spring steel, spring clamps typically have a C-shape with two tangs that can be squeezed together for installation and removal.
Spring clamps are frequently used in cooling systems for automotive applications or in household appliances, like dishwashers or washing machines.
To fit or remove them, you need dedicated spring clip pliers. Without the right pliers you'll either damage the clip or end up with cooling fluid down your arm. Both outcomes are avoidable.
Wire clamps
Also known as double wire clamps or loop clamps, wire clamps have a unique design with two wire loops that apply an even pressure around the hose. Typically made from stainless steel or galvanised steel wire, wire clamps are designed to ensure even pressure distribution, which helps to reduce the risk of hose damage.
The effectiveness of their design makes wire clamps a popular choice for low-pressure applications; they’re commonly used in garden hoses and irrigation systems where the pressure is relatively low.
Ear clamps
A band with one or more raised "ears" that are crimped flat using dedicated pliers, permanently locking the clamp. Once fitted, they can't be opened or reused.
Ear clamps are made from stainless steel or galvanised steel, which means they have excellent corrosion resistance - which sees them often used for fuel lines and air conditioning systems. They are also found in medical devices and pharmaceutical applications, where a secure and tamper-proof connection is essential.
High pressure hose clamps (T-bolt clamps)
T-bolt clamps are heavy-duty hose clamps designed for high-pressure applications. Featuring a T-bolt and nut mechanism, T-bolt clamps are made from stainless steel or heavy-duty galvanised steel, which allows them to withstand highly pressurised conditions and to maintain an even pressure distribution around the hose.
This is the right spec for silicone hoses, turbo intercooler pipes, silicone coolant hoses on performance and agricultural vehicles, and high-pressure radiator hoses on anything that vibrates. If you're fitting silicone hose and reaching for jubilee clips, swap to T-bolts.
Unlike jubilee clips, T-bolts aren't adjustable across a range in the same way. You select the right diameter for the hose rather than choosing a range and adjusting. Not a problem if you measure first.
O-clips and P-clips
These are support clips, not sealing clips. They hold hose or pipework in position, against a chassis rail, through a bulkhead, along a frame. They don't create a seal and they're not designed to. Common in automotive wiring and brake line routing.
Worth mentioning only because they come up in searches alongside hose clamps, and the difference matters.
Plastic hose clamps
For low-pressure, temperature-limited applications: garden irrigation, aquarium pipework, HVAC condensate lines. Good corrosion resistance, won't mark soft pipework. Won't hold anything together under real pressure and creep badly at elevated temperatures. Know your application.
|
Type |
Clamping force |
Reusable? |
Use it for |
Don't use it for |
|
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
Medium |
Yes |
General plumbing, garden, domestic appliances, light automotive |
Silicone hose under vibration; high-vibration where screw may back off |
|
T-bolt clamp |
High |
Yes |
Silicone hose, performance and agricultural automotive, high-vibration |
Where you need range adjustability |
|
Spring clip |
Medium, self-adjusting |
No (not practical) |
OEM automotive coolant lines |
Anywhere you need to frequently remove and refit |
|
Ear clamp (Oetiker) |
High, fixed |
No, single use |
Fuel lines, factory assemblies where tamper evidence matters |
Anything needing adjustment or reuse |
|
Plastic clamp |
Low |
Yes |
Garden irrigation, aquariums, low-pressure HVAC |
Any heat or pressure application |
How to select the right material for your hose clamp?
Mild steel (zinc plated)
The cheap option. Mild steel clamps work fine indoors, in dry conditions, and where the clip isn't going to see moisture, fuel, or cleaning chemicals. Garden sheds. Indoor plumbing behind dry walls. Non-critical bench connections in a workshop.
It will rust when it gets wet. Not slowly, quickly. The zinc plating is thin. Once it's scratched or starts to flake, the base metal corrodes fast. Don't use mild steel under a vehicle, outdoors, near the sea, in a marine environment, in food production, or anywhere chemical contact is likely.
304 stainless steel
The standard trade specification for most applications. Handles water, most dilute acids, and everyday atmospheric exposure well. Rated to 870°C continuous, though if you're anywhere near that temperature with a hose clamp you have bigger problems. The right choice for outdoor plumbing, agricultural equipment, automotive work, HVAC, and general industrial use.
One thing 304 doesn't handle well: chlorides. In prolonged contact with salt water or chlorinated cleaning chemicals, it will eventually pit. For coastal, marine, or food processing applications, step up to 316.
316 stainless steel
Same base alloy as 304 but with molybdenum added, which gives it proper chloride resistance. The correct specification for marine and coastal installations, anything near seawater, food production where chlorinated cleaning-in-place chemicals are used, and chemical processing environments. It costs more than 304. In the environments that need it, it's not a premium, it's just the right spec.

Plastic
Plastic hose clamps are a lightweight and cost-effective alternative to metal clamps. Made from various types of plastics, including nylon and polypropylene, these clamps are suitable for applications where high strength is not required as the plastic is unable to meet the same demands as a metal clamp.
Because of this, plastic clamps are often used in low-pressure situations, such as in gardening, irrigation systems, and certain household applications.
The primary advantage of plastic hose clamps is their cost-effectiveness. They are less expensive than metal clamps, and are much lighter, which can be beneficial in applications where weight is a concern. Additionally, plastic offers some great resistance to corrosion and chemicals.
All-stainless vs "stainless band" clips
Some clips sold as stainless have a stainless steel band but a mild steel worm housing and screw. In a moderate environment, not a problem. In anything wet, salty, or chemically aggressive, the housing corrodes while the band doesn't. Eventually the screw seizes, the housing deforms, or both.
True all-stainless clips (band, housing, and screw all in 304 or 316) cost marginally more. In the environments where you need stainless, you need it all the way through. If the packaging doesn't specify all-stainless, check before ordering.
|
Material |
Corrosion resistance |
Max temp |
Right for |
Wrong for |
|
Mild steel (zinc plated) |
Poor (surface only) |
~200°C |
Dry, indoor, short-term |
Vehicles, outdoors, marine, food, chemicals |
|
304 stainless |
Good |
870°C continuous |
General trade, automotive, agriculture, HVAC |
Prolonged salt water or chloride exposure |
|
316 stainless |
Excellent (chloride-resistant) |
870°C continuous |
Marine, coastal, food, chemical processing |
Where 304 is sufficient and cost matters |
|
All-plastic (nylon) |
Excellent |
70–80°C |
Low-pressure non-metallic systems |
Heat or pressure |
How to pick the right clamp by application
|
Application |
Clip type |
Material |
Watch out |
|
Washing machine / dishwasher |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
304 stainless |
Don't overtighten, rubber hose deforms |
|
Car coolant (rubber hose) |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
304 stainless |
Retighten after first heat cycle |
|
Car coolant (silicone hose) |
T-bolt clamp |
304 stainless |
Jubilee clips cut silicone under vibration |
|
Fuel lines (permanent) |
Ear clamp (Oetiker) |
304 stainless |
Solvent resistance as important as corrosion |
|
Brake circuit (workshop) |
Pinch clamp tool |
N/A, service tool |
Not a permanent fitting |
|
Garden / irrigation |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
304 stainless or mild steel |
Mild steel fine if replaced seasonally |
|
Marine / coastal |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
316 all-stainless only |
304 and zinc clips fail fast near salt |
|
HVAC / ducting |
Profile clamp or large T-bolt |
304 stainless |
Profile vs smooth band depends on ducting type |
|
Hydraulic return (low pressure) |
Heavy-duty jubilee clip |
304 stainless |
Above 50 bar: crimped assembly only |
|
Food / brewing |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
316 stainless |
All-stainless, no zinc near product |
How to select the right size hose clamp?
Getting the right size for your hose clamp is crucial. Not only for saving you time and money, but also ensuring that you reduce the risk of leaks, reduced efficiency, or even damage to the hose or the equipment it's attached to. Let’s run through the steps to get that measurement right…
Measuring your hose diameter
Not the inner bore. Not the nominal pipe diameter. Not the fitting alone. The outside of the hose once it's been pushed fully onto the fitting it will connect to.
Why does it matter? Because the hose wall has thickness. Because the hose compresses slightly when pushed onto a barb. Because the OD of the assembly is what the clip actually encircles.
To measure the hose diameter, you will need a flexible measuring tape or a caliper.
Outside Diameter (O.D.) = Circumference (C) ÷ Pi (3.1416)
Most hose clamps will have a range of diameters they can accommodate, so it's important to choose a clamp that fits within this range. Once you’ve confirmed your measurements, you can select a clamp that sits within the correct adjustment range.
To help clear things up, below is a table for the British standard for screw/band clamps:
|
Size |
Adjustment range (millimetres) |
Adjustment range (inches) |
|
12 |
9.5 mm - 12 mm |
⅜” - ½” |
|
16 |
11 mm - 16 mm |
½” - ⅝” |
|
20 |
13 mm - 20 mm |
½” - ¾” |
|
22 |
16 mm - 22 mm |
⅝” - ⅞” |
|
25 |
18 mm - 25 mm |
¾” - 1” |
|
30 |
22 mm - 30 mm |
⅞” - 1 ⅛” |
|
35 |
25 mm - 35 mm |
1” - 1 ⅜” |
|
40 |
30 mm - 40 mm |
1 ¼” - 1 ⅝” |
|
45 |
32 mm - 45 mm |
1 ¼” - 1 ¾” |
|
50 |
35 mm - 50 mm |
1 ⅜” - 2” |
|
55 |
40 mm - 55 mm |
1 ⅝” - 2 ⅛” |
|
60 |
45 mm - 60 mm |
1 ¾” - 2 ⅜” |
|
70 |
55 mm - 70 mm |
2 ⅛” - 2 ¾” |
Application sizing reference
These are estimates. Sizes vary by manufacturer, hose specification, and fitting. Measure your actual hose before ordering.
|
Application |
Typical hose OD |
Clip range to use |
Type |
|
Garden hose (1/2") |
20–22mm |
16–27mm |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
|
Washing machine inlet |
20–25mm |
20–32mm |
Worm-drive, 304 stainless |
|
Car coolant hose (rubber) |
32–38mm |
27–51mm |
Worm-drive or T-bolt |
|
Silicone intercooler hose |
51–76mm |
51–70mm |
T-bolt clamp |
|
Shower hose connector |
16–20mm |
12–22mm |
Worm-drive jubilee clip |
|
Fuel line (small bore) |
10–16mm |
8–16mm |
Ear clamp (Oetiker) |
|
Ducting / large flexible pipe |
100–150mm |
80–165mm |
T-bolt or profile clamp |
Above about a 60–70mm diameter, and on any silicone hose application regardless of diameter, T-bolt clamps become the better choice. The wider band distributes clamping force more evenly and handles vibration better.

How to install a hose clamp
1. Gather the right tools
Before starting the installation, make sure you have all the proper tools for the job. Different types of hose clamp will require different tools, such as a screwdriver for screw clamps, pliers for ear clamps, or a wrench for T-bolt clamps. Having the right tools on hand will make the installation process much smoother and easier.
2. Prepare the hose and fitting
Make sure the hose and fitting are clean and free of any debris or contaminants. If the hose is old or damaged, it might be time to replace it so you can ensure a tight seal. Once done, slide the hose clamp onto the hose before attaching the hose to the fitting.
Not sure what to look for? Learn How to Tell If Your Hydraulic Hose Needs Replacing.
3. Position the hose clamp
Once the hose is securely attached to the fitting, slide the hose clamp into place. The clamp should be positioned about a quarter of an inch from the end of the hose, covering the fitting's barb or ribbed area. Make sure that the clamp is evenly aligned and not twisted or angled.
4. Tighten the clamp
Using the correct tool for the chosen clamp, tighten the hose clamp as follows:
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Screw clamps: insert the screwdriver into the screw head and turn it clockwise. Continue turning until the clamp is snug but not over-tightened. Over-tightening can damage the hose by cutting into its surface, so aim for a firm yet gentle hold that secures the hose without causing any deformations.
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Spring clamps: use spring clamp pliers or a similar tool to compress the protruding ends - or tangs - of the clamp, then slide the clamp over the hose and fitting. Release the pliers to allow the clamp to spring back, securing the hose in place.
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Wire clamps: use wire clamp pliers or regular pliers to grip the ends of the wire loops. Twist the ends slightly to open the clamp, then slide it over the hose and fitting. Once in position, twist the ends back and press them together to secure the clamp. If the wire is particularly stiff, you may need to use additional force to achieve a secure fit, but take care not to damage the hose.
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Ear clamps: position the clamp over the hose and fitting, ensuring it is evenly placed, then use pliers to crimp the ears of the clamp. Squeeze the pliers firmly until the ears are completely crimped, and the clamp is secure.
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T-Bolt clamps: place the wrench on the nut of the T-bolt and turn it clockwise. Tighten the nut until the clamp is secure around the hose, ensuring an even distribution of pressure. Avoid over-tightening, as it can deform the hose and compromise the seal.
5. Inspect the connection
After tightening the clamp, inspect the connection to make sure that the hose is securely attached, and that there are no visible gaps or misalignments. If necessary, adjust the clamp and re-tighten it to achieve a proper seal.
How to remove a hose clamp
The process for removing a hose clamp is relatively straightforward, though it depends on the type of hose clamp being used. Proper tools are essential for the job to ensure a smooth and damage-free removal process:
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Screw clamps: to remove a screw clamp, insert the screwdriver into the screw head and turn it counterclockwise. Continue loosening the screw until the clamp is loose enough to slide off the hose.
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Spring clamps: to remove a spring clamp, you will need spring clamp pliers or a suitable gripping tool. Position the tool over the clamp’s tangs (the two protruding ends), then squeeze the handles of the tool to compress the clamp and release the tension. Once the clamp is compressed, slide it off the hose and fitting. Take care to maintain a firm grip on the clamp to prevent it from snapping back unexpectedly.
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Wire clamps: use wire clamp pliers or regular pliers to grip the ends of the wire loops. Gently twist and pull the ends to release the tension in the clamp. Work the clamp off the hose, taking care not to damage the hose or the wire loops. If the clamp is stubborn, you may need to cut the wire using wire cutters, but be cautious to avoid damaging the hose.
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Ear clamps: to remove an ear clamp, carefully cut through the crimped section using pliers or a suitable cutting tool. Take care not to damage the hose during this process. Depending on the difficulty of removal and the condition of the hose, you may need to replace the hose or trim it to remove any damaged parts.
-
T-Bolt clamps: use a wrench to turn the nut counterclockwise, loosening the T-bolt. Once the clamp is loose, it can be slid off the hose. T-bolt clamps are typically used in high-pressure applications, so ensure the hose is depressurised before removal to avoid damage or injury.
Frequently asked questions
What is a jubilee clip?
A jubilee clip is a worm-drive hose clamp, a slotted steel band threaded through a housing, tightened by a captive screw that draws the band tighter as you turn it clockwise. The name comes from a product originally patented in 1921 by L. Robinson & Co. and became so widely used in the UK that it turned generic. You'll also see them called hose clips or hose clamps. They're the same thing.
What types of hose clamp are there?
The main types are worm-drive jubilee clips (the standard adjustable clip for most applications), T-bolt clamps (higher clamping force, used for silicone hose and high-vibration applications), spring clips (constant tension, self-adjusting, factory-fit on most OEM automotive coolant lines), ear clamps such as Oetiker-style (single-use crimped clamps used on fuel lines and factory assemblies), and plastic hose clamps (low-pressure, corrosion-resistant, temperature-limited). Each type suits different applications, if you're clamping silicone hose, for example, T-bolt clamps are the right choice, not standard jubilee clips.
How do I choose the right jubilee clip size?
Jubilee clips are sold by a diameter range rather than a single measurement. A clip labelled 16–27mm will fit any hose with an outside diameter between those two figures. The key is to measure the outside diameter of the hose after it's been pushed onto the fitting, not the inner bore, and not the spigot diameter alone. Add 1–2mm to your measurement, then choose a clip whose midpoint sits close to that figure. Using a clip at the very top or bottom of its range gives worse clamping geometry than one used around the middle.
What size jubilee clip do I need for a washing machine?
Most UK washing machine inlet and outlet hose connections have an outside diameter of 20–25mm once fitted. A 20–32mm jubilee clip covers this range comfortably. Use 304 stainless steel rather than zinc-plated mild steel, it costs marginally more and will last considerably longer in a damp environment under a machine that vibrates regularly. Retighten after the first few wash cycles, as rubber hose settles slightly under initial use.
What is a brake hose clamp?
This one means two different things depending on context. In a permanent installation, brake hose connections use flared fittings or banjo bolts, there's no jubilee clip in the assembly. What most people are searching for is a workshop pinch clamp: a tool used to temporarily block fluid flow in a flexible brake hose while you remove a caliper or bleed a circuit without draining the reservoir. That's a service tool, not a hose fitting, and it shouldn't be left in place once the job is done.
Find the right hose clamp at The Hosemaster
Hose clamps play an integral role in securing the transportation of products, liquids, gases, and chemicals, so it is important to pick the right hose clamp for your needs. That’s where The Hosemaster can help. We have a wide range of hoses, clamps, and accessories suitable for any application.
If you require additional support or buying advice, we’re always happy to help. Contact us online with any sales or technical questions, or give us a call on 01282 604 002 to speak to one of our team at any stage of your buying journey.
Browse hose clamps at The Hosemaster
For more product buying guides and useful information, check out The Hosemaster blog…
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