How to Properly Cut and Install Copper Tubing

Rachel Stevens

July 24, 2025

How to Properly Cut and Install Copper Tubing

Copper tubing is used the world over for a range of applications, from plumbing and air conditioning, to aesthetic design. But cutting and installing copper pipes requires a skilled hand and a keen eye.

In this article, we’ll cover exactly what you need to know about copper tubing to cut and fit like a professional.

The properties of copper tubing

But first, let’s understand why copper tubing is so important.

Copper tubing combines physical and chemical attributes that make it a top choice for plumbing and HVAC systems. Its blend of heat handling, strength and hygiene benefits ensures reliable performance across a wide range of applications.

Below are the key properties of copper tubing:

Excellent thermal conductivity: copper conducts heat rapidly and evenly, making it ideal for condensers, radiators and underfloor heating circuits.
High strength at low temperatures: even in sub-zero environments, copper maintains its structural integrity, reducing the risk of brittleness or fracture.
Lightweight construction: with a lower density than steel or cast iron, copper tubing is easier to transport and install, cutting down labour time and effort.
Antimicrobial action: copper’s natural ability to inhibit bacterial growth helps maintain water purity in drinking and medical-gas systems without extra treatments.
Flexibility: annealed copper can be formed around obstacles without elbow fittings, lowering material costs and eliminating potential leak points.
Ease of cutting and joining: compared with harder metals, copper’s softness allows clean cuts and smooth finishes with basic tools, streamlining on-site preparation.

These combined properties means that copper tubing remains the material of choice for modern contractors and engineers.

Types and classifications

Copper tubing is categorised both by its temper (rigidity) and by regional specifications. Understanding these classifications helps you choose the right tube for pressure, bending requirements and local code compliance.

By temper (rigidity)

When discussing rigidity, this can be further divided into soft copper (ductile tubing) and rigid copper (hard tubing), each with their own characteristics:

Soft copper

The key properties of soft copper are:

Annealed after drawing, making it pliable and easy to bend around obstacles without elbow fittings.
The only tubing suited for flare connections, popular in refrigeration lines for split-system air conditioners and heat pumps.
Joins with solder, brazing or compression fittings, just like rigid copper.
Costs more to produce due to the additional annealing process, but saves on fittings and labour.

Rigid Copper

On the other hand, rigid copper is:

Drawn to maximum hardness, requiring elbow fittings to navigate corners or obstructions.
Commonly referred to as “copper pipe” and sized by nominal pipe diameter (inner measurement).
Favoured for straight runs in water mains and high-pressure applications.
Can be softened by annealing in the field if bends are later required.

Regional classifications

Copper tubing classifications and specifications differ depending on the country or region.

UK and Europe

Under EN 1057, tube wall thickness is defined by Types X, Y and Z:

Type X is for standard above-ground services such as potable water and heating.
Type Y has thicker walls, suited to underground or heavy-duty installations.
Type Z has thinner walls, also for above-ground piping.

European tubing is measured by outside diameter in millimetres (e.g., 15 mm, 22 mm), with “micro-bore” variants (8 mm and 10 mm OD) common in compact central-heating circuits.

United States, Canada and Brazil

In these regions, copper tubes are categorised by wall thickness under Types K, L, M and DWV:

Type K (the thickest), is for underground burial and heavy refrigeration lines (green print).
Type L is for residential and commercial water or pressure services (blue print).
Type M is for low-pressure heating and domestic plumbing (red print).
Type DWV (the thinnest), is exclusively for unpressurised drain, waste, and vent work (yellow/orange print).

Types K and L are available as both hard-drawn straight tubes and soft-annealed coils. Type M and DWV normally come only as straight, hard-drawn lengths.

The plumbing trade uses nominal diameter, 1/8 in smaller than outside diameter, while refrigeration relies on true outside-diameter (OD) with letter codes for wall thickness (e.g., ACR Type D).

Australia

Australian standards use Type A, B, C and D, referenced by DN (diamètre nominal), which approximates the Imperial size in millimetres:

DN15 (outside Ø 15.88 mm or ½ in), DN20 (Ø 19.05 mm or ¾ in) and so on.
Wall thickness and pressure ratings vary by type, ensuring compliance with local plumbing codes.

Across all regions, correct selection of tube temper and classification ensures longevity, safety and compliance in every installation.

Buy Now - Metric Annealed Copper Tubing

Uses of copper tubing

Due to its numerous benefits, copper tubing is widely used in a number of different industries:

Plumbing and heating

Copper tubing is the go-to material for clean, reliable water distribution in homes and commercial buildings. Its corrosion resistance and antimicrobial action ensure drinking water remains pure from mains inlet to tap outlet.

In central heating installations, copper’s superior heat conductivity delivers even warmth through radiators and underfloor circuits, while its durability limits joint failures and maintenance over time.

Refrigeration and air conditioning (HVAC)

In HVAC systems (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning), copper tubing carries refrigerant between condenser, evaporator, and compressor with maximum thermal efficiency. Its high conductivity speeds heat exchange, reducing energy consumption and boosting system performance.

Soft-annealed copper is favoured for flare-connected split-system air conditioners and heat pumps, while rigid tube handles high-pressure refrigeration loops in commercial chillers.

Industrial applications

From chemical processing to manufacturing plants, copper tubing stands up to demanding service environments.

It transports gases and liquids in pipelines where leak-tight integrity is critical, and its strength at elevated and sub-zero temperatures makes it ideal for specialised process lines.

In oil-fuel transfer systems, copper’s non-corrosive nature prevents contamination and extends service life.

Non-flammable medical-gas systems

Hospitals and clinics rely on copper tubing for oxygen, nitrous oxide and medical-air distribution.

Certified non-flammable and compatible with medical-grade fittings, copper lines ensure patient safety and regulatory compliance. Its inertness and ease of sterilisation maintain purity in critical-care environments.

Aesthetic design

Beyond its functional merits, exposed copper piping has become a decorative feature in industrial-style interiors.

Whether used as open shelving supports or bespoke lighting fixtures, polished copper adds warmth and character. Its patina evolves gracefully over time, enriching any space with an authentic, lived-in appeal.

Connections and joining methods

Copper tubing can be joined using a variety of techniques, each tailored to the demands of the application, skill level and required permanence.

Below is an overview of the most common methods:

Soldered (sweat) joints

Copper sweating is the most widely used method for potable-water and heating systems in modern buildings, prized for its strength, low cost and reliability.

Process

Slip the copper fitting onto the prepared tube end.
Heat the joint evenly with a propane or MAPP-gas torch until the copper gives a dull glow.
Touch lead-free solder to the side opposite the flame; capillary action draws it into the seam.

Preparation

Clean both the tube outside and fitting inside with emery cloth or steel wool until bright copper appears.
Apply a thin, even coat of flux to prevent oxidation during heating.

Finishing

Wipe away excess solder with a damp cloth while still warm.
To rework, reheat the joint until solder liquefies, separate fitting and tube, clean and re-sweat.

Safety

Work in a well-ventilated space; wear heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses.
Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clear flammable materials from the area.

Brazed connections

Brazing uses a filler metal with a melting point above 427 °C (800 °F), creating joints stronger than soldered ones and ideal for high-pressure, industrial or HVAC applications.

Process

Fit tubing and polished brazing fitting together, apply flux formulated for brazing.
Heat evenly with a high-temperature torch until the filler rod melts and flows by capillarity.

Advantages

Superior mechanical strength and corrosion resistance.
Common practice in Australia using silver-alloy rods for a lead-free, robust bond.

Compression fittings

Compression fittings provide a flame-free option suitable for DIY or when joints may need later disassembly.

Components

A compression nut, ferrule (olive) and matching body fitting.

Process

Slide nut, then ferrule onto the tube.
Seat the tube into the fitting body.
Tighten the nut to compress the ferrule against tube, and fitting, creating a metal-to-metal seal.

Considerations

Quick and straightforward using only wrenches.
May require periodic re-tightening, especially on hot-water lines.

Flare connections

Flare joints are favoured in refrigeration, gas and high-pressure applications for their leak-proof reliability over decades.

Process

Cut a clean, square end on soft copper.
Use a flaring tool to form a 45° bell-shaped flare at the tube’s end.
Position flare over male fitting and tighten the nut to compress the flare.

Tips

Always flare before final length trimming to avoid cracking.
Inspect the flare for cracks or unevenness before assembly.

Crimped (pressed) fittings

Pressed fittings, also known as crimped fittings, use mechanical jaws to deform a copper sleeve around the tube for a permanent, flame-free seal.

Process

Push the fitting over the tube until it seats fully.
Position a powered or manual crimper over the fitting’s collar.
Activate the tool to press the fitting, trapping a pre-injected sealant.

Pros and cons

Rapid installation, clean appearance and no open flame.
Requires proprietary fittings and crimping tools, which carry a higher price.

Push-to-connect fittings

Push-to-connect (or push-in) fittings use internal teeth and O-rings to grip and seal without tools beyond a cutter and deburring tool.

Benefits

Instantly join copper, plastic or PEX pipe in wet conditions.
Ideal for tight spots and quick repairs.

Installation

Ensure the tube end is smooth and deburred.
Push firmly into the fitting until it clicks home—you’ll feel it seat.
Verify security by pulling gently on the tube.

Each joining method offers distinct advantages and trade-offs. Selecting the correct technique helps guarantee long-term integrity, safety, and compliance on every copper pipe project.

A labeled diagram of the different types of tube joins.

How to cut copper tubing

Accurate, clean cuts are essential for leak-free copper installations.

Whether you’re servicing in-situ piping or preparing new lengths on the workbench, following the right preparation and tool techniques will save time and prevent costly rework.

Before you make the first cut, take these preparatory and finishing steps to ensure safety and a professional result:

Shut off and depressurise: isolate the fluid or gas supply and open a downstream valve to release trapped pressure. You should expect a small amount of residual liquid, and contain it with a cloth or drip tray.
Secure the tube: for loose pipe lengths, clamp the tubing in a vice or to a workbench. When working in-situ, support the pipe with a block or strap to minimise movement.
Mark your cut line: use a fine-tip permanent marker or centre-punch to score a clear reference. A square or guide block helps keep your line perpendicular to the tube axis.
Wear PPE: always wear safety glasses to guard against flying copper shards; cut-resistant gloves to protect your hands when handling sharp edges; and a dust mask if you plan to use power tools that generate fine metal dust.
Deburr and smooth: after cutting, remove internal burrs with the built-in cutter wheel on most pipe cutters, or a dedicated reaming tool. Run a round file or sandpaper lightly around the outside edge to soften sharp corners. Wipe the pipe with a cloth or 4-in-1 cleaning tool to clear any debris before joining.

Choosing the right cutting tool depends on space constraints, desired finish and frequency of use. Below are the most common methods for copper pipes:

Manual pipe cutting

Ideal for tight jobs and repeat cuts, the manual pipe cutter gives square, burr-free edges without power tools.

How to use

Position the cutter’s rollers on your marked line, so the cutting wheel faces the mark.
Tighten the knob until the blade contacts the pipe.
Rotate the tool 360°. After each full turn, close the knob slightly.
Keep turning and tightening incrementally until the tube separates cleanly.

When to use

Standard plumbing or HVAC piping where precision matters.
Situations requiring no sparks or debris.

Pros and cons

Consistently square cuts with almost no clean-up.
Light, compact and fully portable.

Needs about 50–75 mm clearance to rotate.
Over-tightening can deform the pipe wall.

Buy Now - Copper Tube Cutter

Battery-operated copper pipe cutter

A powered evolution of the manual cutter, a battery-operated model spins and advances the blade at the pull of a trigger, minimising wrist strain.

How to use

Align the cutter head blade with your cut mark.
Squeeze the trigger, so the blade spins and automatically feeds into the pipe.
Release the trigger once the pipe is severed.

When to use

Frequent cutting tasks or thicker-walled tubing.
Sites where speed outweighs tool bulk.

Pros and cons

Cuts faster than a manual tool, especially on larger diameters.
Often includes LED or laser guides for accuracy.
The bulkier head requires more space behind the pipe.
Heavier and pricier than hand-crank versions.

Hacksaw

The universal fall-back, a hacksaw works without clearance for rotation, though it demands more clean-up afterwards.

How to use

Secure the pipe in a vice or with strong clamps.
Place a 32 TPI blade on your mark; use only smooth, even downstrokes.
Continue until the cut drops free; reverse motion only to reposition.

When to use

Extremely tight spots where cutters won’t fit their full arc.
One-off cuts with basic site tools.

Pros and cons

Readily available and inexpensive.
No specialised equipment required.
Generates metal filings which require thorough cleaning and deburring.
Vibration can shift in situ pipes if not firmly supported.

Autocut Tool

A spring-loaded ring cutter designed for cramped locations, an autocut tool requires just millimetres of clearance.

How to use

Select the autocut ring matching your pipe’s exact outer diameter.
Hook the open ring over the pipe and let the spring tension hold it.
Turn the autocut around the tube 20–30 times. The internal blade scores deeper until it snaps through.

When to use

Cuts directly against walls, floors or joists.
Jobs where minimal clean-up and space-saving are critical.

Pros and cons

Needs only 12–15 mm clearance behind the tube.
Leaves a clean cut with virtually no burrs.
Limited to the fixed sizes in your kit.
Spring tension weakens over time, so it's important to inspect before each use.

Other power saws

When speed or demolition-style cutting is needed, select one of these power options:

Oscillating multi-tool: using a fine-tooth metal blade, its slim head slips into corners and between joists. You should make shallow, controlled passes to avoid pipe distortion.
Dremel rotary tool: secure pipe in a vice and fit a metal-cutting disc. Circle the pipe steadily, applying light pressure until cut through.
Chop saw with metal-cutting blade: ideal for workshop or controlled environments, clamp the pipe in a jig for a perfect 90° finish; allow full blade speed before contacting metal.
Reciprocating saw / jigsaw: this is best for rough-in or demolition. Using a fine-tooth blade, clamp the tube firmly, and cut at a steady pace.

Maintenance and issues

In order to get the most out of your copper tubing, it’s important to inspect it often. A proactive maintenance regime will catch problems before they escalate. We recommend:

Inspecting all visible joints and fittings annually for signs of dampness, greenish staining or white powdery deposits.
Checking pressure tests on new runs to confirm joint integrity under operating conditions.
For complex or concealed installations, scheduling professional inspections every 3–5 years to detect hidden corrosion, pinholes or mechanical damage.
Replacing any suspect sections promptly; small leaks left unattended can undermine adjacent fittings and supports.

Regular inspection and timely maintenance prolong the life of copper pipes and prevent costly failures. Here are the most common issues you might encounter, and how to sort them.

Corrosion

Copper’s corrosion resistance is excellent, but under certain conditions, it can still degrade. Key forms of corrosion include:

Cold-water pitting happens when acidic or contaminated water interacts with residual flux or debris in the tubing, leading to small, localised pits.
Erosion corrosion occurs when high-velocity flow or turbulence mechanically wears away the tube’s inner surface, gradually thinning the wall.
Stray-current (electrolytic) pitting results from unintended electrical currents in the pipe, typically due to poor grounding or bonding, which accelerate metal loss at anodic locations.

To mitigate these risks, flush new installations thoroughly, maintain flow rates within design limits and make sure all electrical bonding meets current wiring regulations.

Pinholes

Pinholes often occur six months to a year after alterations that interrupt a copper system’s electrical continuity, such as installing dielectric unions or plastic-bodied filters. The underlying issue happens in three main stages:

An electrical potential difference arises between two sections of pipe.
Dissolved ions in the water carry current across the non-conductive gap.
Copper at the anodic side oxidises to soluble salts, washing away and forming tiny holes.

To fix it, use a DC voltmeter to measure potential differences; readings above a few millivolts warrant attention. Install bronze grounding clamps on each side of dielectric fittings, joined by a minimum No. 6 AWG copper conductor.

Alternatively, consult a qualified electrician to verify the system’s overall grounding and bonding, so stray currents are safely routed to earth.

Buy Now - Imperial Annealed Copper Tubing

Find premium copper tubing at The Hosemaster

At The Hosemaster, we offer a wide range of copper pipes, plus all the fittings and tools you need for any project. Whether you’re using soft annealed coils for a bespoke heating circuit, or running rigid Type L pipe for a commercial water main, our expert team is on hand to help.

Browse our copper tubing range today, or call us on 01282 604 002 to discuss your requirements.